A journey of anticipation between Good Friday and Easter Sunday
This year we took advantage of the space between Good Friday and Easter Sunday to go on a journey of discovery. We met up in the morning at St Johns in Dumfries and then travelled west, collecting together as a group on the way.
We were welcomed at the Whithorn Trust for a break and a much appreciated coffee! It was here that we were introduced to the historical setting for the story of St Ninian. We also so something of the current activities of the trust. As well as welcoming tourists and pilgrims on the St Ninians way, they are also running projects to develop skills in local young people to keep the crafts alive that are required to maintaing the traditional buildings in the area and rebuild replicas of historical buildings.
Their centre also hold an exhibition of artefacts from the archaeological dig in the 1980’s to recent research like the 3D reconstruction of the face of a bishop from his physical remains cared for in the Abbey. Whithorn might look like a quiet town today, but the streets have been shaped by a history of being the principle “go to location” for kings on pilgrimage.
After our break, we took a short drive to the St Ninians cave car park. We left modern transport behind and continued on foot down to the coast. The path leads through a forest, sometimes filled with bluebells although we were there too early for a full carpet. The transition through the wood gives time to slow down, to notice the details of growing things, and to prepare. Moving through space to change ones mindset. Opening ones mind to experience sensations both physical and spiritual that we can become less aware of in the grind of daily life.
There is short rise just before the path reaches the beach, and the beach itself is made from stones banked up by the waves. This means that when you walk the final few steps on the path the ground lifts you up as you reach the beach and then the horizon opens up to give you a view of where the Solway meets the Irish sea.
The beach is very different environment to the forest. Stone water and sky dominate your experience. There are patterns in the pebbles. If you look out to sea sometimes Mannanan lifts his cloak and reveals the Isle of Man. I often imagine the many ways in which the sea connects us globally. Something which looks like a barrier can become the means to travel and for messages to spread. There is a changed quality in ambient light too. Just standing and experiencing the refreshment of the place without the need to exercise intellect is refreshing for the soul.
We then approached the cave. There are many caves associated with saints in Scotland and the tradition of finding remote places to sit and contemplate is not unique to Christianity. This cave has been associated with the Story of Ninian for thousands of years. The ornate carved crosses that it once held have been moved to care for them in the town of Whithorn. The surface of the cave and cliff face is covered with crosses and names carved by visitors though. What is it about being in the same physical place as a legend that is so special?
We stopped there for lunch. Some took time to wander and think while others enjoyed chatting, or looking at the view.
After a while I gave people the opportunity to cast a pilgrim badge as a record of their journey. The badge is based on one found near Holywood in Dumfries. At one time there was an industry producing badge like these. I compare them to the way in which people will buy a frame from their favourite film, frame it, and hang it on their wall. We are physical creatures and there is a connection between the things we can touch and see and those we cannot. For some this may simply be a reminder of a memory, for others there is a deeper significance.
It has been said that “I hear I forget, I see I remember, I do I understand” Pouring hot metal certainly focuses the mind on the moment and the task in hand!
And then it was time to return. Walking back through the woodland and letting the experience settle. For some this was not the first time they had visited the cave, and for many it wont be the last. Each journey is different though and perhaps some of those who travelled will post about their experiences in the comments!
